Traveling the Lebaniego Way in Cantabria, in search of the hidden valley that has guarded the relics of the True Cross since they were brought to Spain in the eighth century, is an experience in itself. Pilgrims walk through rugged coastlines and green and gentle valleys to snow-capped peaks, where the sea breeze meets the crisp mountain air. This meeting of sea and mountain is the defining characteristic of the pilgrimage to Santo Toribio de Liébana.
San Vicente de la Barquera: where the sea meets the mountains
The pilgrimage typically begins in San Vicente de la Barquera, a coastal village overlooking the Cantabrian Sea. The salty air and the smell of fresh fish greet us from the get-go. But before starting the first stage of the path leading to Cades (28.5 kilometers) trying the local cuisine is mandatory. Without a doubt, the occasion calls for marmita de bonito. This fish stew, prepared with potatoes, onions and spices, is a classic of the Cantabrian coastal cuisine.
Legend has it that tuna fishermen from the Cantabrian Sea used to restore their strength with this hearty and tasty dish after a long day at sea. After the marmita, you need to try one of the most famous desserts of the Val de San Vicente: corbate, delicious strips of puff pastry covered with icing and almonds.
Cades: in the heart of Liebana
We leave the sea and enter the beautiful Liébana Valley. In Cades, a small village surrounded by greenery, a more rustic culinary experience awaits the pilgrim, evoking a simple, healthy lifestyle. Since we still have to walk 30.5 km to reach the next stage, refueling with hearty food is a wise thing to do. Here in Cades, the main dish is quesuco de Liébana, a pressed cow’s milk cheese with an intense and slightly spicy flavor. This cheese, made according to ancient traditions, pairs perfectly with a slice of rye bread and a sip of local cider, the quintessential Cantabrian drink.
Cabañes: an oasis of flavor in Liébana
In Cabañes, time seems to stand still. In this place, cooking is a ritual and cocido lebaniego is its undisputed protagonist. This tasty and nutritious dish is made with simple ingredients: white beans, potatoes, cabbage, chorizo, bacon, and ham bone. The list of ingredients is enough to make you hungry! The cocido lebaniego feels like a warm hug –from within.
It is said that the shepherds of Liébana used to make cocido in large earthenware pots and shared it around the fire after a long day of work. Today, many restaurants in Cabañes offer the opportunity to enjoy this dish in a slightly modernized version, while keeping the traditions intact.
Besides cocido, in Cabañes you can also find local quesuco de Liébana. Many families still make this cheese according to ancient recipes, using raw cow’s milk and aging it in natural caves. Cabañes quesuco is characterized by its firm texture and intense, slightly spicy flavor.
The last stage of the route is the shortest (only 13.7 km). But before you hit the road, make sure to try the pastries of the local bakeries. Pan de escanda, a rustic and tasty bread, pairs with local cheeses and cured meats.
The monastic delights of Santo Toribio de Liébana
Once you arrive in Santo Toribio de Liébana you can visit the monastery and admire the relics of the Lignum Crucis. But to end your journey on an even higher note, make sure you enjoy a good meal in the Cantabrian tradition.
Don’t miss Liébana’s frisuelos: thin, golden, fragrant crepes that are a local specialty. Made with buckwheat flour and milk, they literally melt in your mouth. Served warm with a generous spoonful of Brezo honey, which has an intense and slightly bitter taste, they create a perfectly balanced contrast of flavors. They are perfect to get the day started.
For those who do not want to give up dessert, canónigos are a must. A traditional Liébana dessert, made with a light and velvety custard base, they are covered with a dusting of powdered sugar and decorated with a mint leaf. They are said to have been created by the monks of the Santo Toribio monastery, who offered them to pilgrims in need of some comfort. Today, these sweets are still made according to the original recipes.
Delicacies for every season
Cantabrian cuisine is pretty seasonal, so depending on when you go on a pilgrimage to Liébana, you will get to experience different flavors.
- Spring: Spring is the season for wild herbs such as nettles and dandelions, which are used to make omelets and soups. This is also the time of year when the first asparagus are harvested –a perfect pairing for your grilled meats.
- Summer: Summer is the season for fresh fish, such as sardines and bocartes, which are grilled or fried. There is no shortage of garden produce such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants.
- Autumn: Fall is the season for mushrooms, such as porcini and chiodini, which are used to make different rice-based dishes and soups. Chestnuts are roasted or used in desserts.
- Winter: Winter is the season for hearty dishes such as cocido lebaniego and potaje, a heavy soup made with legumes and vegetables. This is also the time of year for cured meats such as chorizo and sobrasada –all of them with a good glass of red wine.
The Way of Saint Toribio awaits you in Cantabria, with its natural beauty and cultural and spiritual richness. Just make sure to try as many local dishes as you can ¡Buen Camino!
