The Camino Primitivo is the first pilgrimage route to Santiago. It follows the route taken by King Alfonso II the Chaste of Oviedo in the 9th century when he visited the recently discovered tomb of the apostle St. James in what is now Santiago de Compostela.
Although there is no way of knowing exactly where the king went, it is likely that he passed through settlements that were under the administration of the ecclesiastical orders of the time. Scholars have meticulously studied the road network of the time in order to find out what the route might have looked like then.
The Primitive Route includes the beautiful Ruta de los Hospitales, a demanding and historic route that detours through mountainous, steep areas instead of continuing through the valley. Along the Sierra de Fonfaraón, in Asturias, the route connects ancient hospitals that once served pilgrims traveling along ancient Roman paths.
Ruta de los Hospitales
The Ruta de los Hospitales (the “Hospital’s Route”) has its origins in the roads once used by the Romans. These Asturian mountains were once used as quarries. In order to provide services to these Roman miners, aqueducts and roads were built. This route currently begins in La Mortera (municipality of Tineo) and ends in Alto de El Palo (municipality of Allande), covering about 14 kilometers.
There are two main routes and several secondary routes that wind through the peaks and valleys, offering different options to pilgrims who wish to follow this historic path.
First Main Route
This road starts near the village of La Mortera and climbs to the Alto de Lavadoira, reaching the slopes of the peaks of Formiguera and El Águila. It passes by the hospital of Fonfaraón and reaches the Alto de La Marta, where several secondary routes meet.
The first main route comes from the east of the province, in the former Flavium Avia (now Santianes de Pravia), and crosses areas linked to Roman mining, with connections to Lucus Augusti (Lugo) through the Alto de El Palo. The route passes through early human settlements and prehistoric burial sites, as well as Roman ruins (mainly mines), which show the historical importance of this route.
Second Main Route
The Second Main Route begins near Santiago de Cerredo, another ancient gold mining area. The route, known as the “Camino del Hospital”, climbs the northern slopes of the Picón and Caborno peaks to reach the Portiella Pass.
Along the way, pilgrims pass by the first hospital documented in the 15th century, located in La Paradiella. From La Paradiella, the route continues along the slopes of La Chana peak, crossing the river Porciles, and finally reaches the hospital of Fonfaraón.
This path, although less accessible in some sections due to its current state, allows visitors to admire the old mining infrastructure and truly beautiful landscapes. This second route offers an alternative connection to the Hospital de Fonfaraón and joins the first one at Alto de La Marta.
Alternative routes
From Alto de La Marta, three secondary routes branch off in different directions, all connected to the main historic roads network.
- First Alternative Route: This route follows a well-preserved old road from Alto de La Marta to Alto de El Palo. It follows the peaks of La Casilla, Freitas, and El Palo. The path is easy to walk (mostly flat) and offers views of the old water channels used in the Roman mines. The route ends in Montefurado, where pilgrims coming from the Hospitales route and the Allande Valley route meet.
- Second Alternative Route: This option also connects the Alto de La Marta with El Palo but climbs higher to the mining areas of La Freita. Once there, it descends gently to El Palo. Along this route, pilgrims find the water channels once used for drainage and transportation in the mines, as well as the mining remains of La Freita, the largest gold mine in the area.
- Third Secondary Path: This is the least known of the three, and goes through more mountainous areas, descending towards the Braña de Vallinadosa and passing visible mine water tunnels, such as the Xan Rata. Although it shortens the route to Montefurado, it is more difficult to walk due to the steeper and less traveled terrain.
The Old Hospitals
Along this route, pilgrims could find assistance in the hospitals that were built centuries ago to care for those who walked the Camino de Santiago. These hospitals were founded between the 13th and 15th centuries.
- Hospital of La Paradiella: It is mentioned in some documents from the 15th century, although There are no solid references in official maps.
- Fonfaraón Hospital: This hospital, one of the best known of them all, was a royal foundation. Its patron was Count Marcel de Peñalba. Although only a few traces of it remain today, it was once an important shelter for pilgrims.
- Hospital of Valparaíso: Also sponsored by the Marquis of Peñalba, it is located near Fonfaraón. The two hospitals are separated by a short distance and were part of a network that guaranteed assistance on this very high route.
- La Freita Hospital: Located in Estreitin, its existence is somewhat obscure, as very few archaeological remains have been found. It is believed that it may have been the fourth hospital on the route, but it is not currently marked.
Walking the route today
The Ruta de los Hospitales is one of the most impressive sections of the Camino Primitivo. It is known for its mountainous landscapes and historical roads that can still be walked today: these ancient Roman paths have been preserved, used, and tended to for centuries. Although a certain level of physical preparation is required to face its steep slopes, the route offers a unique experience. It is advisable to pay attention to the weather and to carry enough supplies, as there is no modern medical care in the area.
Along the way, pilgrims can enjoy the tranquility of the solitary paths, contemplate the remains of the Roman mines and visit places such as Montefurado, where routes from both the peaks and the valley converge.
The Ruta de los Hospitales on the Primitive Way links ancient Roman history and Medieval hospitality in Asturias, offering a special glimpse into the Jacobean tradition, being one of the oldest and most challenging routes to Santiago de Compostela.
This article is a summary of the information provided by the web GuíaVisualdelCaminoPrimitivo. In this LINK you can download the details and maps of the Ruta de los Hospitales.
