In Umbria, the air smells of rosemary and wild thyme. In the now distant 13th century, a holy (and revolutionary) beggar walked its rolling hills barefoot, living the simplest of lives: St. Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy –a figure admired and loved far beyond his native Umbria.
But what did Francis eat, an ascetic as he was? Let’s take a culinary journey through medieval Umbria to discover the flavors that nourished the soul (and stomach) of one of history’s most beloved saints.
Francis was not a vegetarian
Contrary to popular belief, St. Francis was not a vegetarian –although of course he did eat vegetables. The Unconfirmed First Rule of the Franciscan Order, written around 1221, gives us a revealing glimpse into his relationship with food:
“And whenever the need arises, all the friars, wherever they may be, should be allowed to help themselves to all the food that men may eat, just as the Lord says of David, who ate the loaves of the sacrifice that were not to be eaten except by priests.”
This flexibility in diet shows Francis’ pragmatic spirit, which emphasized gratitude and sharing rather than rigid dietary restrictions. Food was a gift, and it should be accepted as such: freely and with open arms (and mouths).
What St. Francis liked to eat
Admittedly, the poor man of Assisi lived by begging, so he ate what was offered to him, but he did have a few favorite dishes.
- Shrimp and pike pie.
Curiously enough, shrimp and pike pie is featured in an episode in the life of St. Francis. We know from medieval hagiography that he stayed for a while with the monks at Fonte Colombo, who would try to heal his eyes –contemporary scholars claim he might have suffered from trachoma. During this time, he was given a basket full of tasty dishes –including shrimp pie. As Thomas of Celano recounts in the famous Treatise on Miracles:
“the table of the Lord came to the aid of the table of His servants; a knock was heard at the door, a monk rushed in, and behold, a woman offered a basket full of fragrant bread, fish, and shrimp pie, with bunches of grapes and honey on top” (3Cel, FF 859).
What the saint seems to have appreciated most from that basket was the pie. The recipe of the time called for the use of both the meat and the broth of prawns and pike, adding walnuts and other spices.
- Pike, a freshwater fish
Francis’ love for pike was so great that, according to the Speculum Perfectionis, when he was seriously ill in the bishop’s palace in Assisi, he said he wished that he could eat pike. As if miraculously, a friar suddenly arrived with three beautiful fish and shrimp pies.
“He had just said this wish when a fellow came forward with a basket containing three large pikes, well cooked, and pies of shrimp, which the saint gladly ate. Brother Gerard, the parish priest of Rieti, sent them to him” (Spec. ch. 111, FF 1811).
- Mostaccioli
Although the Rule of St. Francis warned against excesses –“Take care that your hearts do not become heavy with crapula and drunkenness”– Francis did not completely disdain sweet delicacies. Mostaccioli, sweets made of almonds, flour, grape must and honey, were apparently his favorite dessert.
- Wine
Yes, St. Francis drank wine –although only from time to time, and if offered to him.
So, what did St. Francis eat every day?
Beyond these very specific preferences, and the food that was given to him and the other friars, his diet simply followed Italian medieval dietary practices.
- Bread: the basics.
Bread was a staple of the medieval diet, and St. Francis considered it essential. He often ate simple bread made from wheat flour, water, and salt. At a time when bread was almost synonymous with life itself, Francis saw it as a gift from God –and a clear symbol of both sustenance and community.
Other grains, such as barley and spelt, were essential to the daily diet and were mostly eaten in soups.
- Vegetables and wild herbs
St. Francis’ diet included a variety of fresh vegetables (cabbage, onions, carrots) and legumes. Wild herbs gathered from the fields were traditionally used to season dishes, adding distinct local flavors.
St. Francis’ diet, in its extreme simplicity, respected the very original flavors of the ingredients themselves, reminding us that food is not only about filling one’s stomach, but also about connection with nature, gratitude, and mindfulness.
