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The Ark of the Covenant: A pilgrimage to Axum

Interior of the church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, the most sacred place for all Orthodox Ethiopians in Aksum, Ethiopia. Dmitry Chulov - Shutterstock
Interior of the church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, the most sacred place for all Orthodox Ethiopians in Aksum, Ethiopia. Dmitry Chulov - Shutterstock

The Ark of the Covenant is described in the Hebrew Bible as the most sacred object of the Israelites. As such continues to inspire awe, mystery –and pilgrimage. Crafted from acacia wood and overlaid with gold, the Ark is said to have housed the Tablets of the Law, Aaron’s rod, and a pot of manna. It was a tangible representation of God’s covenant and the center of Israelite worship, carried ahead of the people during their journey through the wilderness.

While the Ark disappeared from the biblical record after the Babylonian destruction of the First Temple in 587 BCE, one of the most enduring traditions places it in Axum, Ethiopia. According to Ethiopian Orthodox tradition, the Ark was taken to Axum by Menelik I, the legendary son of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. Today, the Ark is said to rest in the Chapel of the Tablet, part of the Church of St. Mary of Zion, making Axum a pilgrimage site of profound spiritual significance.

The Biblical ark: A vessel of the divine

The Ark’s journey began at Mount Sinai, where God instructed Moses to construct it during his 40-day sojourn on the mountain. Gilded inside and out, the Ark’s design included two cherubim on its lid, known as the Mercy Seat, between which God’s presence was believed to dwell. Carried by Levites, the Ark led the Israelites through the desert and played a central role in their conquest of Canaan, including the parting of the Jordan River and the fall of Jericho’s walls.

Later housed in the Holy of Holies in Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem, the Ark served as the ultimate symbol of divine presence and covenant. However, with the Temple’s destruction, the Ark’s fate became a mystery, giving rise to centuries of speculation and legend.

The Ark’s journey to Ethiopia: Menelik I and Axum

El Arca de la Alianza es llevada a Etiopía por Menelik, hijo del rey Salomón Axum, Etiopía
The Ark of the Covenant is brought to Ethiopia by Menelik, son of King Solomon Aksum, Ethiopia.

One of the most compelling narratives about the Ark’s fate is found in the Kebra Nagast (The Glory of Kings), an Ethiopian epic written in the 14th century, but based on earlier traditions. According to the text, the Ark came to Ethiopia during the reign of King Solomon.

The story begins with the Queen of Sheba, called Makeda in Ethiopian tradition, who visited Solomon in Jerusalem to learn from his wisdom. Their union produced a son, Menelik I, who was raised in Ethiopia. As an adult, Menelik traveled to Jerusalem to meet his father. Upon leaving, the text recounts, Menelik secretly took the Ark of the Covenant with the help of priests loyal to him.

The Kebra Nagast portrays this act not as theft, but as divine will. The Ark’s transit to Ethiopia was guided and protected by God, and a replica was left in the Temple to avoid discovery. Upon reaching Ethiopia, Menelik brought the Ark to Axum, establishing Ethiopia as a second Zion and making the Ark the spiritual center of the Ethiopian people.

For Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, these narratives cement the Ark’s role in their religious heritage and the divine favor granted to their nation. Axum, as the Ark’s resting place, became a sacred city and an enduring pilgrimage destination.

Axum as a pilgrimage destination

Today, Axum is one of the most important spiritual sites in Ethiopia. The Chapel of the Tablet, part of the Church of St. Mary of Zion, is said to house the Ark. There, a monk known as the “Guardian of the Ark” dedicates his life to its protection. No one else may see the Ark, but this secrecy does not deter pilgrims; instead, it heightens the site’s mystical aura.

Pilgrimage to Axum is driven by a desire to be in contact with the Ark’s sacred power, and by the will to learn more about Ethiopia’s unique place in biblical history. For visitors, standing in the shadow of the Chapel is a humbling (and somewhat uncanny) experience.

Chapel of the Ark of the Covenant

Timkat and the celebration of the Ark

Timkat en Etiopia
Timkat Festival celebrations carrying the tabot in Addis Adeba

The annual Timkat festival, celebrated on January 19 (or January 20 in a leap year), is a highlight of Axum’s religious calendar and a significant draw for pilgrims. Timkat commemorates the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan River, and its central feature is the procession of tabots — replicas of the Ark housed in Ethiopian Orthodox churches.

During Timkat, Axum comes alive with religious fervor. The tabots are carried on the heads of priests in elaborate processions, wrapped in colorful cloths, and treated with utmost reverence. Pilgrims join in prayer, chanting, and ritual re-enactments, creating an atmosphere of majestic devotion. For many, the festival is an opportunity to renew their spiritual connection to the divine covenant represented by the Ark.

A pilgrimage to Axum is both a physical and spiritual undertaking. The journey itself is part of the act of devotion, as if following the Ark’s own movement through history — from Mount Sinai to Jerusalem, and eventually, to Ethiopia. For pilgrims, reaching Axum is akin to approaching the sacred –a process requiring preparation, faith, and endurance. Indeed, standing before the Chapel of the Tablet, even without seeing the Ark, is a powerful experience for believers and non-believers alike. The site evokes the profound mystery of divine presence and the enduring power of these traditions.

Beyond the Chapel: Axum’s historical significance

While the Ark is the centerpiece of Axum’s religious identity, the city itself offers a rich historical and archaeological landscape. Once the capital of the Aksumite Empire, Axum was a hub of commerce, culture, and religious traditions. Its towering stelae fields, ancient inscriptions, and royal tombs bear witness to a civilization that thrived from the 1st to 7th centuries CE.

The Queen of Sheba’s Palace, a site tied to Ethiopia’s Solomonic lineage, and the ruins of ancient churches add depth to Axum’s sacred narrative. Pilgrims often extend their visit to explore these sites, connecting Ethiopia’s spiritual heritage with its historical grandeur.

 

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