The history of Madiran wine, a robust red wine from south-west France, is intertwined with one of the most important pilgrimage routes in Christianity –the Camino de Santiago. The wine’s roots go back (obviously enough) to the village of Madiran, nestled in the Gers, Hautes-Pyrénées and Pyrénées-Atlantiques regions, renowned for their unique terroir and dedication to traditional winemaking practices. With Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status since 1948, Madiran has gained recognition for producing wines with high tannin content and intense concentration, thanks largely to its dominant grape, the Tannat.
In his famed enological-philosophical-autobiographical book I Drink Therefore I Am, Roger Scruton mentions a fascinating historical link between Madiran wine and the pilgrims of the Camino de Santiago. According to Scruton, in the Middle Ages, those travelling on the Camino Francés would carry Madiran wine with them, from France, rather than having northern Spanish wine. For these French pilgrims, the rich and tannic qualities of Madiran provided sustenance and comfort during their arduous journey to Santiago de Compostela. The wine’s cultural heritage, linked to the spiritual journey of countless French pilgrims, elevates it from a simple drink to a symbol of endurance.
Although French pilgrims historically carried Madiran wine on their journey to Santiago de Compostela, Scruton argues that they may have been mistaken to overlook local Spanish wines. In particular, Scruton praises Bierzo, a wine made from the indigenous Mencía grape grown in the steep, chalky foothills of north-west Spain. Despite the treacherous terrain in which the grape grows, Bierzo offers something remarkable. Scruton describes its “blood-dark color” and “brooding flavor” and compares it to the “bittersweet love song of Lorca”. For him, Bierzo’s mineral-rich, sun-drenched depth justifies the labour involved in its production, leaving the French pilgrims’ preference for Madiran open to question. In his opinion, they are missing out on a wine of haunting beauty and profound character, worthy of every pilgrim’s journey.
Now, the Tannat grape, which must make up at least 60% of any Madiran AOC wine, is renowned for producing bold, structured wines. In fact, some of the finest Madiran wines are made from 100% Tannat and are renowned for their ability to age gracefully –pretty much like the finest Bordeaux wines. Although traditionally quite intense and requiring years of aging, modern winemakers have embraced techniques such as micro-oxygenation to create more approachable, youthful wines. This blend of tradition and innovation has allowed Madiran wine to evolve while retaining its historic identity.
When you sip Madiran or Bierzo, you are sharing in a centuries-old tradition that has sustained travelers on their sacred journey. Its deep flavors reflect the resilience of both the pilgrims and the winemakers who continue to honor the land and its vines. In Madiran as in northwestern Spain, wine and pilgrimage are intertwined, providing physical and spiritual nourishment for all travelers.
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