In Zaragoza, traditional sweet treats are dedicated to Our Lady of the Pillar –the Aragonese Marian devotion famous throughout Spain and beyond. The famous Adoquines del Pilar, massive sweets that can weigh up to half a kilo, have become a gastronomic and cultural symbol of Aragón for more than a century.
A hundred years old candy
Adoquines del Pilar (Spanish for “Pillar’s Cobblestones”) were born in 1928 in the Aragonese town of Calatayud, thanks to the ingenuity of confectioner Manuel Caro Gormaz. Inspired by the cobblestones paving the streets near the Basilica, these sweets quickly became a symbol of the city. Since then, three generations have passed down the recipe. Today, Manuel José Caro keeps the family business running, producing these gigantic candies in its traditional flavors: strawberry, lemon, orange, and anise.
Now, the adoquines are a perfect summary of Aragonese traditions. To begin with, they are hard (really hard) candy –yet another reason why they are called “cobblestones.” Eating them can be quite the challenge. In fact, some smash it into pieces with a hammer. Also, the paper used to wrap them shows the image of Our Lady of the Pillar on a white background. The Virgin’s mantle changes color depending on the flavor of the candy.
Even more: the edges of the wrapping mimic the cachirulo, a typical Aragonese checkered handkerchief used in the Fiestas del Pilar, as part of the traditional baturro costume. On top of that, inside the wrapping one finds the lyrics of different jotas or coplas –typical Aragonese songs and poems. As each wrapping is virtually unique, they are quite a popular item for collectors.
A memorable gift
One cannot leave Zaragoza without buying at least one Adoquín. They are the most popular Zaragozan –especially during the feast of October 12th, the day of the Virgen del Pilar. People go in flocks to the (now historic) El Maño shop.
In Spain, the tradition of making sweets in honor of local vírgenes is widespread. In Madrid, the Corona de la Almudena is made for the feast of the city’s patron saint. In Valencia, Geperudetes are made in honor of the Virgen de los Desamparados. In Málaga, two young confectioners have created the Ancla del Carmen for Our Lady of Mount Carmel, while in Granada they bake the Torta de la Virgen de las Angustias. These regional sweets, like the Adoquines del Pilar, celebrate and honor local Marian devotions through unique culinary delights.
