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Pecorino: A Roman tradition woven into pilgrimage routes

Bits of delicious Pecorino Romano, a typical Italian cheese made from sheep's milk Alessio Orru - Shutterstock
Bits of delicious Pecorino Romano, a typical Italian cheese made from sheep's milk Alessio Orru - Shutterstock

Pecorino cheese, crafted exclusively from sheep’s milk, has been an integral part of Italian culture since antiquity. Its origins, deeply rooted in the Roman pastoral economy, connect the culinary traditions of Lazio and surrounding regions to the practical needs of travelers and pilgrims who traversed historic routes. As both a symbol of agricultural heritage and a pragmatic food source, pecorino reflects centuries of shared history along Italy’s pilgrimage pathways.

Ancient roots and Roman ingenuity

Sheep farming flourished in central Italy during the Roman Republic (509–27 BCE), driven by the region’s mild climate and ample grazing lands. Pecorino, derived from the Italian word pecora for sheep, emerged as a cornerstone of the Roman diet. Texts from the period, such as Pliny the Elder’s Natural History, describe salted sheep’s milk cheese as a staple in military rations, enabling soldiers to endure long campaigns with minimal provisions.

Preservation was key to pecorino’s utility. Its dense, salty composition resisted spoilage and made it easy to transport, qualities that extended its reach beyond the battlefield. Urban markets in Rome and rural communities alike relied on this durable cheese, embedding it in the daily lives of citizens across the empire.

Sustenance for pilgrims

Preparing and serving cheese; Tacuinum Sanitatis, 14th century
Preparing and serving cheese; Tacuinum Sanitatis, 14th century. Public Domain

Centuries later, pecorino became a vital provision for pilgrims journeying to sacred sites such as Rome or Assisi. The Via Francigena, a major route linking Canterbury to the Eternal City, saw countless travelers carrying cheese, bread, and dried fruits—foods chosen for their longevity and nourishment. Pecorino’s hard texture and bold flavor made it especially suitable for these arduous journeys. Pilgrims could count on its ability to satisfy hunger while withstanding the challenges of long-distance travel.

Shepherds along the pilgrimage routes played a critical role in this exchange. Many sold or donated cheese to travelers, while monastic hospices incorporated pecorino into the meals offered to weary pilgrims. Its versatility also allowed it to complement local dishes, providing a connection to the regional cuisine of the areas through which pilgrims passed.

Pecorino Romano and the Roman identity

Among the many varieties of pecorino, Pecorino Romano holds a unique place in the culinary and cultural identity of Rome. Unlike softer versions from Tuscany or Sicily, Pecorino Romano is firm, sharp, and intensely salty. These characteristics, honed through centuries of production, reflect its historical role as both a seasoning cheese and a long-lasting foodstuff.

The cheese is protected under the European Union’s PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) system, which ensures that genuine Pecorino Romano is produced in Lazio, Sardinia, or Tuscany using traditional methods. These methods include salting the wheels by hand and aging them for at least five months. Today, Pecorino Romano remains a cornerstone of classic Roman dishes like cacio e pepe and carbonara, anchoring the cuisine in its historical roots.

A landscape of tradition

pecorino
Various types of pecorino romano for sale in a “salumeria”

The production of pecorino cheese is deeply tied to the rhythms of rural life. In Lazio, seasonal migrations of sheep between summer and winter pastures—the ancient practice of transhumance—have shaped the region’s agricultural landscape for centuries. This movement allowed shepherds to sustain their flocks while fostering the production of high-quality milk for cheese-making.

Pilgrimage routes often intersected with these pastoral traditions. The cheese purchased or consumed along the way carried the essence of the land and the labor that produced it. Pilgrims walking through Lazio, Tuscany, or Sardinia encountered pecorino as a product that spoke volumes of the landscapes they traversed.

Continuity in modern times

Today, pecorino remains a living link to Italy’s historical and cultural heritage. Festivals celebrating pecorino production, such as the Sagra del Pecorino in Pienza, draw visitors eager to explore its significance, and have a taste of the legendary cheese. Many of these events take place in towns along pilgrimage routes, connecting modern travelers to the traditions of earlier centuries.

Agriturismi (farm stays) near historic paths also highlight the enduring relationship between cheese-making and pilgrimage culture. Visitors can learn traditional techniques, sample pecorino at its source, and gain a deeper understanding of the pastoral practices that have sustained this craft for generations. These experiences offer a tangible way to engage with history through taste, tying the present to the past.

From ancient Roman soldiers to medieval pilgrims and today’s cultural travelers, this humble yet robust cheese continues to convey the landscapes and traditions of central Italy. Its place on the table is as enduring as the routes that carried it across centuries.

From Canterbury to Rome: The birth of the Via Francigena

This post is also available in: Español Italiano

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